This September, our Tailwaters group traveled to Brazil for a week of peacock bass fishing on the Rio Marié, followed by an arapaima add-on at Pirarucú. The combination gave us two very different Amazon fly fishing experiences: long days casting poppers and streamers from a moving mothership operation, then a few more days targeting arapaima, tambaqui and arowana in the Mamirauá Reserve.
I had been in the Amazon earlier that summer fishing Tsimane in Bolivia, but Brazil felt considerably bigger. The flights alone give you some perspective. Once you leave Manaus, there are hours of almost uninterrupted jungle and water before you finally meet the Untamed Amazon on the Rio Marié.
Getting to Rio Marié through Manaus
Our route from Dallas took us through Houston and Panama before arriving in Manaus. Untamed Angling met us at the airport and transferred us to a boutique hotel, where we had time to settle in before heading into the jungle. The connections broke up the journey, and having someone handle the transfers made the arrival straightforward.
From Manaus, our group used a combination of Cessna Caravan and floatplane flights. Everyone made the final approach to the mothership by floatplane, landing on the river beside the operation. Weather influenced the aircraft and timing, so this is part of the trip where flexibility matters.
We arrived around midday, with time for lunch, unpacking and rigging rods before the evening guide introductions. The welcome presentation covered the fishery and the different peacock bass we would be targeting. It was a useful introduction before the first full fishing day.
Peacock bass fly fishing on the Rio Marié
The Rio Marié is in the upper Rio Negro basin. Our base, the Untamed Amazon, moved through the river system during the week, putting us within reach of new water as conditions changed. The guides rotated us through assigned beats, with stretches of main river and lagoons spread among the boats.
The fishing was straightforward and physical. Both anglers fished at the same time, casting large streamers and poppers around banks, fallen trees and other structure. I liked the freedom to experiment with the retrieve: speed it up, slow it down, pause it and see what happens. If you grew up bass fishing, a lot of it will feel familiar.
Sometimes one angler fished a popper while the other followed with a streamer. The surface commotion could draw fish up, with the streamer getting the eat behind it. Other times they crushed the popper outright. The smaller butterfly peacocks were plenty aggressive, and the power of the larger fish was probably what surprised me most.
Main river action and big fish in the lagoons
We started with high water, and the fishing improved as the river continued to drop. During our week, the main river offered more consistent action. The lagoons were hotter, quieter and more of a grind, but they produced our biggest fish. Those observations reflect the conditions we fished, rather than a rule for every week on the Marié.
Everyone in our group landed peacocks over 10 pounds. Bob landed the fish of the trip at 20 pounds and 88 centimeters. Jessica and I also had a day with 81 butterfly peacocks, breaking the lodge’s previous single-day butterfly record. It was steady action for hours.
One of the best stories came from Alyssa and Glenn. They doubled on large pacas, and more fish followed the hooked pair toward the boat. Their guide grabbed a rod and hooked a third, giving them a three-fish paca photo that became one of the favorites from the week.
Those were memorable results, but giant peacock bass still required plenty of work. There were long stretches of casting and stripping when nothing happened. Being willing to keep fishing through those periods was a big part of the trip.
Rods and flies that worked on our trip
For Rio Marié, a 9-weight would be my starting point. My ideal setup for that portion of the trip would be several 9-weights rigged with floating and intermediate options, so I could change presentations without constantly rerigging. Our group also used 8-weight floating setups for poppers because we had brought those rods with Pirarucú in mind.
We fished large, hollow-tied streamers that pushed water without carrying too much material. That made a difference when casting all day. Fire-tiger colors worked well during our week, though changing flies did not solve every slow spell. The guides’ understanding of the water and fish activity mattered just as much.
Accuracy and repeatable casting were more useful than extreme distance. Before a trip like this, I would spend time getting comfortable with larger flies on a heavier rod. Rio Marié and Pirarucú also call for different tackle, so the final packing list should match the whole itinerary.
From our Brazil peacock bass gear list
Life aboard the Untamed Amazon
The experience on the Marié extended well beyond the fishing. During our stay, we generally left around 7:30 or 8:00 in the morning and returned around 5:00. Breakfast was a generous spread, and lunches varied between food packed for the boat and hot meals the guides prepared on the river.
After a full day in the heat, the air-conditioned interior was especially welcome. There were comfortable seating areas, a bar and plenty of room to hang out before dinner. We had imagined spending every evening on the upper deck, but the couches inside got plenty of use.
The food and hospitality were excellent. Each evening, the guides hosted informal fly-tying sessions with our group. We talked through what had worked, tied different patterns and colors, and fished some of those flies the following morning. One night we watched the original Anaconda on the boat. There aren’t many better places for a ’90s jungle movie.
The guide teams also gave us a closer look at how the fishery operates. We fished with a professional guide and an Indigenous guide, whose role included fish handling and the tagging program. We recaptured a tagged peacock during the week and saw how the operation records information on individual fish. The local communities’ involvement was an important part of the experience.
Adding Pirarucú for arapaima fly fishing
After the Marié, six of us continued to Pirarucú in the Mamirauá Reserve. Our transfer took us by floatplane and charter flight through São Gabriel to Tefé, then by vehicle to the dock. From there, an enclosed boat carried us to the lodge in about an hour and fifteen minutes. That was our itinerary; the exact transfer sequence is something to confirm when planning a trip.
Pirarucú felt very different from the mothership. We stayed in floating eco-lodge cabins, with simpler accommodations and considerably more visible wildlife around us. Caiman, rolling arapaima and arowana were right there around the lodge, and we also saw a sloth during our stay. For anyone who enjoys photography, there was a lot to look at.
It is worth understanding that difference before combining the two destinations. We had just come from the comfort and service aboard the Untamed Amazon. Pirarucú was more rustic and fishing-focused. I enjoyed the home-style meals, and the chance to target completely different species made the add-on worthwhile.
Fishing for arapaima, tambaqui and arowana
Arapaima were the primary target. They surfaced to breathe, which helped reveal where fish were moving, but this was mostly patient fishing with sinking lines over areas the guides knew held fish. The retrieve was extremely slow. When a fish ate, the line suddenly felt as if it were connected to a log.
Everyone in our Pirarucú group caught multiple arapaima, along with tambaqui and arowana. The tambaqui were particularly impressive and probably the hardest-fighting fish pound for pound that we encountered. I caught one on a borrowed 6-weight, which was more than enough excitement on that setup.
Arowana offered a lighter option, including sight fishing with small dry flies on 5- and 6-weights. On his last day, Glenn spent an afternoon targeting them with a small beetle pattern. Having those options made Pirarucú much more interesting than fishing for arapaima all day.
Heat and the daily routine at Pirarucú
The heat and humidity were a major part of the experience, and Pirarucú felt even hotter than Rio Marié. Our days started around 7:30, with a return to the lodge at noon for lunch and a break in the shade. We went back out around 2:30 or 3:00 and fished until about 5:00.
For me, the short add-on was a good fit after the week on the Marié. It gave us time to fish for several new species and see another part of the Amazon without turning the entire trip into an arapaima-focused stay.
Who this Brazil fly fishing trip suits
Rio Marié was the standout for me personally. I grew up bass fishing, and I still love covering structure, changing retrieves and knowing a large fish could eat at any time. Fishing alongside your boat partner throughout the day was another big part of the appeal.
This is a trip for anglers who enjoy lots of casting and are comfortable fishing larger flies in the heat. You do not need to be an exceptional distance caster, but you do need a repeatable cast you can sustain through a long day. Pirarucú adds a different pace, simpler lodge life and the patience that comes with fishing sinking lines for arapaima.
More than anything, we had a great group. Everyone caught quality fish, the guides and staff were excellent, and we were already talking about another trip before we left Brazil. I certainly plan on going back.
Plan a Brazil fly fishing trip with Tailwaters
Tailwaters Travel represents Rio Marié, Pirarucú and other fishing programs throughout Brazil. Our team has firsthand experience with the fisheries, travel logistics and equipment involved.
Contact the Tailwaters Travel Department to talk through peacock bass fishing on the Rio Marié, an arapaima add-on at Pirarucú and the itinerary that best fits your group.
Photos by Jessica Foraie, with more from our group.
